Monday, January 11, 2010

Not expecting the unexpected



Often the best memories and experiences come when the unexpected happens, whether you're ready for it or not. So how good is it when you go somewhere not really expecting much, but come away absolutely inspired and uplifted by what you've seen and experienced? Fortescue Bay and Cape Hauy delivered in spades with a pristine beach, spectacular coast line and breathtaking sea cliffs - it provided a highlight from a wonderful week in Tassie.


It was the day after the Mt Wellington ascent, and a great pizza shared with some wonderful visiting QLD friends at downtown Salamanca Place in Hobart - I really like the city - and I headed out towards the Tasman peninsula before travelling up the east coast for the final National Park visit at Freycinet Peninsula. The Tasman peninsula is better known as home to Port Arthur, the well known convict settlement from the 1800's. It's a spectacular area joined to mainland Tasmania via two narrow stretches of land, first at Dunalley and then at Eaglehawk Neck. Back in history, Eaglehawk Neck was permanently guarded since it provided the only land-based escape, providing a very secure area for a convict colony.

Of course these days there's lookouts for people like me to stop at, where at one lookout two rocky outcrops off in the distance caught my attention. Known as The Lanterns they sat as two small but very abrupt islands just off the end of a point that jutted out into the ocean. They looked spectacular but I accepted the only way to see them would be via boat, such was the ruggedness of the terrain along the coast.



Anyway, while on the Tasman peninsula I wanted to do another run, and checked my map for likely places, also remembering some suggestions my brother had made - I was looking for more trails to run along. A place called Cape Hauy tweaked my attention and sounded familiar, so I found the turn-off and headed down a dusty, dirt road for 12km in the Tasman National Park until I arrived at Fortescue Bay on the easy coast of Tasman peninsula.


Fortescue Bay has a pristine beach at the inner end of quite a large cove, surrounded by dense bushland, mountains and rugged coastline. A camping area was directly adjacent to the beach, and a little further along a boat ramp where a few "tinnies" and other fishing boats were launched from...which is a shame since their very presence - and the bogans who drove them - destroyed the serenity of the area. Nonetheless, it was beautiful and was the starting point for a tour out to Cape Hauy.


After Cradle Mtn I was quite used to trail running, and this track was no different - rocky, hilly, rough - it had it all. Fortunately, it didn't have any snakes, since they would have scared the sh*t out of me!!! The trail was marked as 4hrs return for walkers, and for a long way I couldn't see much through the trees but was going upwards so was sure of a view sometime soon. And then, after a turn and emerging from the bush I started to see where I was running to - the coastal view took my breath away.


I was at the top of the spur looking down on Cape Hauy - a narrow point out in front of me - and with ocean on either side at the bottom of very high sea cliffs. On either side I could see the equally rugged coastline stretching off into the distance, with small inlets, points, rocks, blowholes and more all the way along. It was like having a front row view of to an amazing nature show, and to make it better it was blue sky and a calm ocean - picture postcard stuff.


There was a lot more very rough and rocky trail to traverse before I got the Cape Hauy, in some places going along the top of a sea cliff with a good 100m vertical drop downwards. And all the way out to the point the view got better and better as it opened up and I could see more of the coastline is each direction. I was awestruck at everything I was seeing, and gob smacked at how beautiful it all was - how lucky was I to be there, and on such a perfect day.





Eventually the track stopped at Cape Hauy and there, literally a stones throw away were the The Lanterns - two small islands that looked like rock columns reaching 100m or more above the sea. From where I stood I looked directly across at the top of them, and some scant vegetation growing on top of them. But it was the sheer cliffs of rock below my viewpoint that made it spectacular, plus the ocean view up and down the coast. In a strange kind of way it was exhilarating being in the midst of this rugged beauty, centre stage, on a perfect day. How good was this!!

The return trip was no easier, and the view was still just as good. Running back to Fortescue Bay the clean white sand came into sight on the beach, which was overwhelmingly inviting for swim when I got back - it was a warm day and the water was crystal clear. The end of a fantastic run like this was a great feeling. Finally the reward was a swim. In I ran with every intention of diving under and enjoying the refreshing water…until I saw hundreds of goddam jellyfish!!! Oh my god, I hate these things, and quickly stopped in my tracks and got out. I did eventually get in for a swim, still getting a few "tickles' from some jellys - it was worth it!!




So the final stage of the trip was a stop-off - and another run - around at Freycinet National Park, home of the famous wineglass bay. It was nice, but perhaps I was on a little bit of a down after the highlight of the previous day…and after endless trial running I was just plain tired!!


Tasmania was an amazing trip, and there's still lots of things I didn't see. But as the slogan says - a world apart, not a world away, so I plan to go back again and see some more. It's a beautiful place.

No comments:

Post a Comment